I’m speaking with Fabio Parasecoli about his new book, Gastronativism: Food, Identity, Politics, at the Museum of the City of New York at a session chaired by Krishnendu Ray at 6:30 pm. Information is here and the ticketing link is here. This is a preview of the museum’s forthcoming exhibit, Food in New York: Bigger Than the Plate (opening September 16) and is co-presented by MOFAD (Museum of Food and Drink).
Spoil alert: Jamie Oliver evaluated
TV is one thing but Jamie Oliver’s school intervention is over in real life and has already been evaluated in a study by researchers at West Virginia University.
They asked seven questions of 109 4th- and 5th-grade students, 35 teachers, 6 cooks, and the country food service director (Results):
1. Are the new menu items acceptable to the students? Not much. 77% said they hated the food (but 66% said they tried new foods).
2. Do the new menus impact lunch participation? Yes, badly. Participation decreased by 9%.
3. Does removal of flavored milk impact milk consumption? Yes, milk consumption decreased by 25%.
4. How do teachers perceive the new menus? Not too differently than they perceived the old ones, but they thought the new ones were more nutritious.
5. Do the new menus impact the workload for food service staff? Yes, they didn’t like it that they had to work harder and longer, and they preferred their own food.
6. Do the new menus impact meal costs? Yes, labor and ingredient costs were higher.
7. Do the new menus meet the federal and state nutrition guidelines? Yes and no. Fat and saturated fat were higher than USDA targets, sodium and fiber met guidelines, and vitamins and minerals exceeded targets.
So what to make of this? Remember, this is reality TV, not a real school intervention. Real ones start at the beginning of a semester, not in the middle, and are about food, not entertainment. They also do not leave it up to the kids to decide what to eat.
I think it’s telling that the first question asked is whether kids like the food. This assumes that liking food is independent of external influences like peer pressure and food marketing.
Since when do kids get to decide what’s best for them to eat? Isn’t that an adult responsibility?
I’m more interested in knowing what happens in schools in that town after the TV crews are long gone. If the programs are any indication, I think real changes will take place in the minds, hearts, and stomachs of participants and viewers. Whether researchers can figure out how to capture those changes is another matter.
Addendum: Here’s the Associated Press story on the evaluation, which quotes me.