by Marion Nestle

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Sep 10 2026

Reflections on my 90th birthday—and food politics

Today is my 90th birthday, and this is my 5765th post on this site since starting it in 2007.

To quote the late Gloria Steinem, this is what 90 looks like.

Photo taken at Autumn Leaves Books, Ithaca, July 2026

 

As should be obvious, I have had a hugely fortunate life.

I was born into a poor family but came of age during the now-understood-to-be-unique period between the end of World War II and the election of Ronald Reagan.  Then, a university education was essentially free; I paid $32 per semester in fees to the University of California Berkeley.  Housing was affordable; the first house I bought cost $14,500.  Anyone with a modest academic salary could expect to lead a solid middle-class life.  And for women, doors were beginning to open.

I was in graduate school in the early 1960s, a time when we thought we were changing the world.  We were going to end the war in Vietnam, end poverty, obtain civil rights, get equity for women, protect the environment, end injustice, curb corporate power.  We could see these changes happening.  The future was going to be better, and for everyone.

That was my normal.  I had no idea how unusual that 30-year period would turn out to be, or how powerful the backlash against it.

I was lucky enough to find work—teaching, writing, speaking—that I found deeply engrossing, stimulating, and rewarding.  I still do.

As for my ability to continue to do these things?  Good nutrition, of course,  And even more luck.

My book, Food Politics, turns 25 next year and I recently submitted a new Preface and Afterword for its 25th anniversary edition (forthcoming, February 2027).

Here is how I ended the Afterword:

I am often asked how I remain hopeful in the light of the food industry’s power to control and corrupt government. My answer: the food movement. I see its effects everywhere. Healthier foods are more widely available than when Food Politics first appeared. Increasing numbers of people, old and young, care about food issues and want to improve the food system. Every place I travel, I see more schools serving healthier and better-tasting meals, more farmers’ markets, more young people wanting to farm, more concern about humane farm animal production, more backyard chickens and urban gardens, and more attention to local, seasonal, and sustainable food. Most gratifying, more people understand the politics. A quarter century ago, I could not use the word “capitalism” in class or lectures without turning off the room. Now when I talk about food system problems, someone invariably challenges me: “but aren’t you talking about capitalism?” Yes, I am, and late-stage capitalism at that.

When my NYU department started food studies programs in 1996, we were virtually alone.[i] Today, colleges and universities host food programs and courses in practically every department and unit, all teaching students how to think critically about—and engage in—the country’s most pressing economic, political, social, and health problems. Food issues are a lens into those problems. They are high on the agendas of local, state, national, and international governments. The media cover agriculture, food, and nutrition extensively and, as a reporter once told me, command so much national attention that food issues constitute a Full Employment Act.

I especially see hope at the grassroots level. Many communities are engaged in efforts to improve school meals, reduce childhood obesity, align agricultural production with health goals, and make healthier food more available and affordable for all. Advocates are increasingly learning and following well-established strategies for achieving social change. To the extent they do, they have a good chance at success.[ii]

Today’s challenge is to take advocacy to the national level. If I could wave a magic wand, here is what I would do to make healthy food choices more available, accessible, affordable, and desirable—the default—and not only in the United States.

  • Conduct ongoing national education campaigns to promote healthful choices.
  • Refocus agricultural production subsidies on food for people rather than feed for livestock animals and ethanol and diesel fuel for cars and airplanes.
  • Increase taxes on unhealthful foods and support lower prices for healthful foods.
  • Restrict marketing of unhealthful foods and promote marketing of healthful foods.
  • Enact a universal basic income program so everyone can afford to eat healthfully.
  • Enact a universal school meals program—with adequate funding—so all children have access to healthful breakfasts and lunches.
  • Overturn Citizens United and get money out of politics.
  • Reform Wall Street to require corporations to provide benefits to their workers, communities, and society as well as to stockholders.

These ideas may sound like pie in the sky, but I deeply believe that setting goals—even those that seem highly unattainable—is a useful public health strategy. Unrealistic goals can educate, expand expectations, promote critical thinking, motivate action, attract resources, and encourage accountability. Sometimes, with skill and luck, they can even be achieved.[iii] Efforts to create better and more equitable food systems are prime expressions of democracy in action—of the people, by the people, for the people. They are well worth engagement, advocacy, and activism, and deserve everyone’s support.

Notes

[i] Bentley A, Parasecoli F, Ray K, eds. Practicing Food Studies. New York: NYU Press, 2024.

[ii] Bobo KA, Max S, Bobo K, et al. Organizing for Social Change: Midwest Academy Manual for Activists. New York: Seven Locks Press, 2001.

[iii] Eyal N, Sjöstrand M. On knowingly setting unrealistic goals in public health. Am J Public Health 2020;110(4):480–484. doi: 10.2105/AJPH.2019.305428.

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Sep 9 2026

Yuka’s report on ultra-processed foods: Don’t miss it.

Yuka, the wildly popular (88 million users) supermarket app for analyzing food labels for nutritional value and health impact, has produced a terrific report: Ultra-Processed Foods: Decoding a Food Transformation with Major Health Consequences.

The report

  • Reviews the history of food processing
  • Defines ultra-processed foods
  • Reviews their health risks
  • Explain how they affect health
  • Describes the food system that produces them
  • Explains how to identify them and make better choices

The report is beautifully illustrated, especially with examples of the marketing of ultra-processed foods and drinks to children.

The illustrations also illustrate the major concepts, ingredient extraction, in this case.

As for how to tell the difference between a processed and an ultra-processed food, try this:

The report is written clearly and covers the territory.  If you want to understand ultra-processed foods, here’s the best way to do it that I’ve seen.  High marks to the authors, Yuka’s Julie Chapon, CEO and Co-Founder Gabriela Mourad Vicenssuto.

Sep 8 2026

Sugar-Coated: published today!

My co-author, Lisa Sutherland, is a former vice president of Kellogg.  We had a great time writing this.

Information about the book is here.

For a 30% discount at that site, use code UCPSAVE30.

Here’s the official launch invitation

Please come to the celebration and launch for my new book, Tuesday, September 8 | 6:00–8:00 p.m. | NYU Bobst Library.  Registration and further information are here.

Sep 7 2026

Labor Day: a food politics reminder

On this Labor Day, let’s honor the people who do the hard agricultural work that brings food to our tables.

Image from Vecteezy.

Sep 4 2026

RIP Gloria Steinem, 1934-2026

Gloria Steinem was very much a heroine of my generation.  I did not know her personally, although I met her once.  It was a memorable occasion.

Gloria Steinem, Padma Lakshmi, Ruth Reichl, and me in 2021.

This was a meeting at Gloria’s house to discuss menopause, of all things.  I could not figure out why I was invited—I’m a little late for that discussion.  It turned out that one of the women there, a donor to Gloria’s foundation apparently,  had developed a line of menopause products and wanted us to know about them.

Whatever.  I was thrilled to be there and have the chance to meet her.

We are the same generation.  We came of age at a time when women opportunities for women to work, let alone have careers, were limited.

We did cross paths.  We were at the same youth festival in Vienna in 1959.  She was funded by the CIA; I was not.  We did not meet.

But I knew about her work from early on.  I loved her account of posing as a Playboy bunny.  I could see how MS magazine provided an intellectual basis for the women’s movement.

It even provoked new thoughts about the food movement.  My all-time favorite article (I am mentioned in it) is The Feminist Food Revolution.  It asked a question I had never thought of: Why do men keep getting all the credit for the food movement?

She was a tireless advocate for better opportunities for women, and an inspiration to keep on advocating.

I wish I had known her better.

Here’s The New York Times obituary.  It’s on the top of the front page of the print copy, as well it should.

Sep 3 2026

Should we be eating lettuce?

I’ve been following the Cyclospora outbreak with riveted interest because it so exemplifies what’s wrong with our food system: not enough safety effort from producers and not enough government oversight.

So here is Washington Post writer, Tamar Haspel, asking Why we should stop eating lettuce, cyclospora or not.  

“Lettuce,” she says, “makes us sick, wastes resources and has minimal nutritional value. Why are we still consuming it?”

Her arguments:

  • Waste: “The Agriculture Department estimates that we waste as much lettuce as we eat. Roughly, we eat 3 billion pounds and we toss 3 billion pounds every year.
  • Low nutrient value: Lettuce is mainly water. You have to eat a lot of lettuce to get nutritional value.
  • Carbon emissions: “CarbonCloud estimates that lettuce’s carbon cost is 0.56 kilograms of carbon dioxide equivalent per kilogram of lettuce, a number that’s right in line with Our World in Data’s estimate of the “other vegetables” category. That means our 6 billion pounds of lettuce generate 3 billion pounds of carbon dioxide. That’s 2.7 million metric tons, more than half a million cars’ worth.”
  • Land use: “The U.S. generates all that carbon dioxide by growing lettuce on 375,000 acres. (We also import lettuce.) That’s an area bigger than Cape Cod….”
  • Cost/Benefit: “So, on one side of the ledger we have 1.7 million annual cases of food poisoning, $3.7 billion and 3 billion pounds of rotting lettuce. On the other we have, basically, an excuse to kid yourself into eating blue cheese dressing….”

Well, the Cyclospora outbreak has caused lots of people to follow this advice.  As food safety lawyer Bill Marler writes: Six and a Half Million Households Quit Buying Salad in a Single Month. Eighty-Two Percent Say They Will Come Back When This Is Contained. The Industry Cannot Message Its Way to Contained.

More than 6.5 million American households stopped buying salad mixes and kits in the month ending July 26, against the month before. Eighty-seven percent of produce shoppers know about the Cyclospora outbreak. More than a quarter of households say they have quit salads and fresh greens entirely and another one in ten has cut back, which Numerator puts at roughly $280 million in consumer produce spending at risk for every month this continues…Salad trips at quick-service restaurants fell more than 16 percent.

He also points to the irony: We are not substituting other vegetables for lettuce; we are eating fewer vegetables overall—at the same time the government is urging us to Eat Real Food.

As he puts it today, Shoppers Are Walking Past the Produce Aisle. Telling Them We Have the Safest Food Supply in the World Will Not Bring Them Back (check out the New Yorker cartoon, if nothing else).

Comment

So I’m not opposed to eating lettuce.  Haspel’s arguments can be made for any vegetable.  I like it in salads and sandwiches and just about anything else.  I grow it, buy it at farmers markets, and buy whole heads at grocery stores.  I just avoid bagged salads.

Here’s what I think are the real issues raised by the Cyclospora outbreak.  We need:

  • Better oversight and enforcement of existing food safety rules
  • Pending food safety rules (traceability!) to be implemented, despite industry lobbying.
  • Vegetable growers to insist on better standards (an outbreak like this hurts all vegetable growers, not just those growing lettuce in Mexico)
  • Consumers to insist on our right to safe food
  • Food safety to be taken seriously—by government, industry, and eaters.

Food safety is a major, major issue in food politics.

 

Sep 2 2026

RIP Wendell Berry, 1934 – 2026

Alas, we must now mourn the death of one of the great heroes of food politics, the honorable and immensely inspiring Wendell Berry.

His very existence was enough for hope that a decent food system might some day be possible in the United States.

When I think of his writings—his many books, essays, and poems—the words “decency” and “values” leap to mind.

He believed so deeply in the inherent worth of agrarian life—the idea that small-scale, sustainable, organic, regenerative agriculture, plant and animal, is the bedrock of a healthy, moral, and ethical life.  He lived that life.

He also believed that agrarian values are fundamental to healthy, moral, and ethical societies.

Ethics.  Imagine that.

I was honored to meet him for the first time at his home in Port Royal, Kentucky in 2007.  I have had this photo on the wall of my NYU office ever since.

He was a constant source of inspiration.

What a loss.

I’ve collected a few memorial items recently posted.

Go with your love to the fields.
Lie down in the shade. Rest your head
in her lap. Swear allegiance
to what is nighest your thoughts.
As soon as the generals and the politicos
can predict the motions of your mind,
lose it. Leave it as a sign
to mark the false trail, the way
you didn’t go. Be like the fox
who makes more tracks than necessary,
some in the wrong direction.
Practice resurrection.

When despair for the world grows in me
and I wake in the night at the least sound
in fear of what my life and my children’s lives may be,
I go and lie down where the wood drake
rests in his beauty on the water, and the great heron feeds.
I come into the peace of wild things
who do not tax their lives with forethought
of grief. I come into the presence of still water.
And I feel above me the day-blind stars
waiting with their light. For a time
I rest in the grace of the world, and am free.

The fragment of the earth
that is now me is only on its way
through me. It is on its way
from having been a tree,
a school of fish, a terrapin,
a flock of birds. It will pass
through all those forms again.

Addition

Civil Eats on Remembering Wendell Berry (my comment is included, along with those of many others)

Sep 1 2026

SNAP waivers are associated with short-term decreases in soda purchases

MAHA has announced a big win.

A study of purchase data from states with SNAP food restriction waivers, “Short-Run Impacts of SNAP Restriction Waivers on Beverage Purchases,finds a 13% decrease in soda purchases within the first two months, with even larger decreases in the poorest households (18.5%).  Yes, 13%, not 12% as the MAHA win poster says.

The study: Frisvold DE, Rojas FL.  Short-run impacts of SNAP restriction waivers on beverage purchases.  National Bureau of Economic Research, August 2026.  doi: 10.3386/w35613.

Background: Just published USDA data from 2023 show households participating in SNAP to consume more sugar-sweetened beverages than non-participating households.  A USDA study in 2016 showed similar results.

Attempts to restrict sodas on SNAP have been rejected by the USDA for years, but under the Trump administration, it has approved SNAP food restriction waivers for 23 states.  At the moment, 8 states have banned sugary drinks, 10 are in the process of implementing bans, and the policy in 5 states is under litigation.

Some economists have argued that SNAP participants would just use their own money to buy sugary drinks.  This study found that they did not.

According to the New York Times,

Fetch, a rewards app, found similar results in its data. Fetch users upload grocery and other receipts to receive coupons, allowing the company to track payment methods, including SNAP. In the company’s sample, SNAP households spent about 12 percent less on soda in the first three months of 2026 compared with the same period the year before. Water, coffee and juice purchases did not decline.

But some analysts say SNAP Food Restrictions May Help or Hurt—But We Will Probably Never Know.  They are particularly concerned about the lack of appropriate data sources for evaluation of the policy, and the potentially negative impacts of the policies—especially a decline in SNAP participation.

The Trump administration’s tightened rules for SNAP eligibility has already resulted in 5.6 million fewer enrollees compared with last year.

Declines in enrollment can be tracked here and here.

Comment

I’ve long supported restrictions on sugary beverages on SNAP, something intended from the time the program first started by blocked by the soda industry and retailers (the principal beneficiaries of SNAP).  But I wanted USDA waivers to come with rigorous evaluations plans that included not only purchase data, but also how participants felt about the bans and dealt with them.

The current waivers appear to me to be punitive, in line with the Trump administration’s other efforts to reduce SNAP enrollment—something it is achieving quite well.

So here’s another MAHA win: a big decline in SNAP enrollment.  They aren’t boasting about that one though, at least not publicly.