Thought for the week: muffin v. cupcake
Thanks to my colleague Lisa Young for taking this photo at the Magnolia Bakery in Manhattan.
Thanks to my colleague Lisa Young for taking this photo at the Magnolia Bakery in Manhattan.
You may recall that one result of the fuss over the highly controversial BMJ article attacking the Dietary Guidelines process was appointment of a committee to review that process.
It has just published the first of its reports, which deals only with the first of the four charges to the committee, which were to determine:
1. How the selection process for the Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee (DGAC) can be improved to provide more transparency, eliminate bias, and include committee members with a range of viewpoints;
2. How the Nutrition Evidence Library (NEL) is compiled and used, including whether the NEL reviews and other systematic reviews and data analysis are conducted according to rigorous and objective scientific standards;
3. How systematic reviews are conducted on long-standing DGAC recommendations, including whether scientific studies are included from scientists with a range of viewpoints; and
4. How the DGA can better prevent chronic disease, ensure nutritional sufficiency for all Americans, and accommodate a range of individual factors, including age, gender, and metabolic health.
The committee identified values governing the committee selection process:
Its recommendations:
Good recommendations and good luck with them.
I can hardly wait to see this committee’s report on the remaining charges.
In the meantime, it’s about time to start appointing the 2020 Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee, no?
I’ve just heard about the new Netherlands food guide. It emphasizes sustainability. According to an article in National Geographic’s The Plate,
The Netherlands Nutrition Centre says it is recommending people eat just two servings of meat a week, setting an explicit limit on meat consumption for the first time [but see added comment below].
Here’s what the Netherlands food guide looks like.
Google translator calls this a pyramid, and explains: “Moreover, the Pyramid helps you eat more environmentally friendly broadly.”
Ours, of course, looks like this. I’m guessing the USDA is working on a new food guide in response to the 2015 Dietary Guidelines. These do not mention sustainability at all—the S word.
If you want to check out food guides m other countries, see FAO’s pages on food-based dietary guidelines. You can search the site by regions and countries. Fun!
Added comment: A reader from Amsterdam, who obviously speaks Dutch better than Google translator, and who also is well versed in the Dutch nutrition scene, writes:
Sustainability is indeed an important concern in the new Dutch food guide. However, the recommendation for meat is not ‘two servings per week’, but two servings of red meat and two servings of white meat (chicken), for a total of four per week. One serving is 100 gram or 3.5 oz. of meat. Diehards may add a third serving of red meat; 300 g of red meat (11 oz) plus 200 g of chicken (7 oz) per week is considered the absolute limit.
The fish advice has been reduced from twice to once a week because environmental concerns were thought to outweigh the small health benefit of a second weekly serving of fish.
You might think that eating is one of those things that comes naturally, but for the next three weeks I’m going to be posting books telling us how. Here’s the first:
Bee Wilson speaks from experience. She once was a picky eater bordering on having an eating disorder. Simply eating when hungry and stopping when full is a challenge for many of us. Wilson explores how food preferences are acquired or made and how culture and environment turn biological needs into obesity-promoting hazards. Her advice boils down to aphorisms, for example:
I’m indebted to Maria Godoy of NPR’s The Salt for pointing out where in the new 2015 Dietary Guidelines you can find advice about cutting down on sugary drinks. As she puts it, this is easy to miss.
Here’s my wonky analysis.
In my post about the 2015 Dietary Guidelines, I noted that they are unambiguous about the need to reduce added sugars to 10% or less of calories. But what they say about cutting down on sugary drinks—the leading source of sugars in US diets—is buried deep in the text. Fortunately, Deborah Noble of slowfoodfast.com has performed a great public service by producing the 2015 Dietary Guidelines in a searchable pdf format.Here’s where to find advice about cutting down on sugary drinks:
The Executive Summary: See under “Cross-Cutting Topics of Public Health Importance:”
Similarly, added sugars should be reduced in the diet and not replaced with low-calorie sweeteners, but rather with healthy options, such as water in place of sugar-sweetened beverages.
Figure 2-10 explains:
The major source of added sugars in typical U.S. diets is beverages, which include soft drinks, fruit drinks, sweetened coffee and tea, energy drinks, alcoholic beverages, and flavored waters.
Reading the Figure tells you that beverages comprise a whopping 47% of added sugars (closer to half if you add in sweetened milks, teas, and coffees). The text following the Figure says:
Shift to reduce added sugars consumption to less than 10 percent of calories per day: Individuals have many potential options for reducing the intake of added sugars. Strategies include choosing beverages with no added sugars, such as water, in place of sugar-sweetened beverages, reducing portions of sugar-sweetened beverages, drinking these beverages less often, and selecting beverages low in added sugars.
Strategies? How about just saying: “Cut down on sugary drinks” or “Drink water instead of sugary drinks.”
Figure ES-1 in the Executive Summary illustrates the 2015-2020 Dietary Guidelines for Americans at a Glance. All it says is:
Limit calories from added sugars…Consume an eating pattern low in added sugars…Cut back on food and beverages higher in these components to amounts that fit within healthy eating patterns.
Figure 3.2 shows Implementation of the Guidelines through MyPlate: “Drink and eat less…added sugars,” but nothing about sugary drinks.
This circumspection is weird. Clear, straightforward advice to cut down on sugary beverages has plenty of historical precedent.
Both Figures ES-1 and 3.2 are most certainly derived from a USDA graphic on the MyPlate website (dated January 2016). This says flat out:
Drink water instead of sugary drinks.
This statement, in turn, derives from:
The 2015 DGAC (Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee) repeatedly urged limits on consumption of sugar-sweetened beverages. Statements like this one, for example, appear throughout the document:
To decrease dietary intake from added sugars, the U.S. population should reduce consumption of sugar-sweetened beverages.
Why did the USDA and HHS writing committee choose to waffle about his point?
This cannot be an accident. It must be deliberate. And it can have only one explanation: politics.
The 2015 Dietary Guidelines are out.
They are now online in a version that takes up dozens of screens with annoying drop-down boxes. It’s hard to navigate, and if it’s searchable, I can’t figure out how (OK, it’s searchable but doesn’t work all that well).
First the good news. These Dietary Guidelines—for the first time—attempt to focus on foods and dietary patterns:
Previous editions of the Dietary Guidelines focused primarily on individual dietary components such as food groups and nutrients. However, people do not eat food groups and nutrients in isolation but rather in combination, and the totality of the diet forms an overall eating pattern.
They almost succeed in this mission. The Guidelines say:
A healthy eating pattern, they say:
As for (Oops) Nutrients:
Why Oops? Because these Dietary Guidelines, like all previous versions, recommend foods when they suggest “eat more.” But they switch to nutrients whenever they suggest “eat less.”
In the 2015 Dietary Guidelines,
If the Guidelines really focused on dietary patterns, they wouldn’t pussyfoot. They would come right out and say:
Why don’t they? Politics, of course.
Recall that Congress weighed in with an Appropriations Bill that called for an investigation of the scientific basis of the Guidelines and granted $1 million to the National Academy of Medicine to take them over.
Recall also that the secretaries of USDA and HHS said that the Guidelines would not say anything about sustainability as a rationale for advising eating less meat.
So let’s count the 2015 Guidelines as a win for the meat, sugary drink, processed, and junk food industries.
Other concerns, nutritional and otherwise:
I might have more to say when I can look at a document that is easier to read.
Full disclosure: I was a peer reviewer on an earlier version of this document.
Documents and commentary
While we are endlessly waiting for the release of the 2015 Dietary Guidelines, Tamar Haspel and I thought we would jump the gun and write up for the Washington Post what we think most makes sense: How to eat more healthfully, in 6 easy steps.
Here are our Rogue Dietary Guidelines:
Go through the fine print of the omnibus spending bill just passed by Congress, and you’ll see that the 2015 Dietary Guidelines, scheduled for release in — you guessed it — 2015, have been pushed out to 2016. You wouldn’t think that the government’s efforts, every five years, to help Americans eat more healthfully would turn into a political football. But when its appointed scientists reviewed the literature on meat and health, for example, they did something quite radical. They said what they meant with no equivocations: Americans should eat less meat.
As if that were not radical enough — previous committees had pussyfooted with such euphemisms as “choose lean meats to reduce saturated fat” — this committee insisted on an additional reason beyond health: environmental considerations.
The result? Uproar.
Arguments like the ones over the Dietary Guidelines, fueled by lobbyists, politicians and agenda-driven groups, make diet advice seem maddeningly inconsistent, but the fundamentals haven’t changed much at all.
It’s time to take back the process, so we’re going rogue and issuing our own Dietary Guidelines, untainted by industry lobbying, unrestricted by partisan politics. Here, in six easy steps, is our advice for the new year: what we think dietary guidelines ought to say.
Let’s pause here for the good news. If you follow our first two guidelines, you can stop worrying. Everything else is fine-tuning, and you have plenty of leeway.
This is an appropriate place to talk about a phrase that has been thrown around a lot in the Dietary Guidelines brouhaha: “science-based.”
As a journalist (Tamar) and a scientist (Marion), we’re very much in favor of science. But in this situation, the food industry’s frequent calls for “science-based” guidelines really mean, “We don’t like what you said.”
Arriving at truths about human nutrition isn’t easy. We can’t keep research subjects captive and feed them controlled diets for the decades it takes many health problems to play out. Nor can we feed them something until it kills them. We have to rely on animal research, short-term trials and population data, all of which have serious limitations and require interpretation — and intelligent people can come to quite different opinions about what those studies mean.
Which is why “eat some if you like it” isn’t a wishy-washy cop-out. It acknowledges science’s limitations. We do know that plants are good, and we do know that junk foods aren’t, but in between is an awful lot of uncertainty. So, eat more plants, eat less junk, and eat that in-between stuff moderately. That is exactly the advice science demands.
What we eat and how we eat go hand in hand. We’ve all been there, sitting in front of a screen and finding that, all of a sudden, that bag, box or sleeve of something crunchy and tasty is all gone. We’re so focused on what to eat that how to eat gets short shrift. So:
If you go out in the world armed only with these guidelines, you’ll do great. Sure, there’s much more to know, if you want to know it. We’ve forged careers writing about food and nutrition, and either one of us could talk micronutrients until your eyes glaze over. But these few basics are all you need to make good food decisions. Choose foods you like, cook them and enjoy them.
It really is that simple.
Haspel is the James Beard award-winning writer of Unearthed, a Washington Post column devoted to finding out what’s actually true about food.
Nestle is professor of nutrition, food studies and public health at New York University and is the author, most recently, of “Soda Politics: Taking on Big Soda (and Winning).”
Jason Huffman, Helena Bottemiller Evich, and Jenny Hopkinson of Politico Pro Agriculture have published their end-of-year assessment of game-changing events in food and agriculture policy last year. Here’s their list:
I’ve discussed most of these on this site (all except Waters of the US).
I can’t wait to see what this year brings—more of the same, for sure, but what else? Stay tuned.