(With a click of her mouse, EatingLiberally’s kat corners Dr. Marion  Nestle, NYU professor of nutrition and author of Pet  Food Politics, What to Eat and Food  Politics🙂
KT: Monday’s New York Times had an  editorial supporting the reauthorization of the Child Nutrition Act, a bill that would give the US Agriculture Department “new powers to set  nutritional standards for any food sold on school grounds, particularly  junk foods that contribute to obesity.”
The current standards leave a lot to be desired, as Jamie Oliver’s  Food Revolution has revealed. In the first episode, Jamie stood accused  of shortchanging the kids on carbohydrates because he omitted the bread  from a meal that already included rice.
Last Friday, in episode three, Jamie found himself charged with the  violation of “insufficient vegetables,” despite the fact that his  noodle-based entree featured seven different vegetables. The remedy? Add  a bunch of french fries to the meal to meet the veggie quota.
How did the USDA’s school lunch standards ever get so nutritionally  nutty? Would passage of the CNA support the wholesome, made-from-scratch  meals that Jamie Oliver’s trying to bring back to our cafeterias?
Dr. Nestle: You are asking about the history of the  USDA’s school lunch program?  Nothing could be more complicated or  arcane. Fortunately, two new books take this on: Susan Levine’s School Lunch Politics: The Surprising History of America’s Favorite  Welfare Program (Princeton, 2010), and Janet Poppendieck’s Free for All: Fixing  School Food in America (California,  2010).
I used Poppendieck’s book in my Food Ethics class at NYU this  semester and reading it while watching Jamie Oliver’s programs was a lot  of fun. Yes, Oliver is doing reality television but no, he’s not  exaggerating.  If you find this difficult to believe, read Poppendieck’s  book or take a quick look at Kate  Adamick’s review of Oliver’s Food Revolution on the Atlantic Food  Channel.
As Levine and Poppendieck explain, and as I discussed in Food  Politics (California, 2007), school lunches started out as a way to dispose of  surplus agricultural commodities by feeding hungry kids. Over the years,  it got caught up in a series of “wars”–first on poverty, hunger, and  malnutrition and later on welfare and obesity.
The  politics of school lunch, and of the CNA in particular, have always  reflected the tension inherent in any welfare program, in this case  feeding the poor vs. inducing dependency and overspending. In recent  years, as obesity became much more of a public health problem than  malnutrition, the politics came to reflect the tensions between  commercial interests and those of nutrition reformers. Congress is  always involved as it endlessly tinkers with the rules for “competitive  foods”–the sodas and snacks sold in competition with federally  supported school meals.
Competitive foods put schools in a dilemma and in conflict of  interest. They make money from competitive foods to help support the  school lunch program. But sodas and snacks undermine participation in  school meals programs.
Poppendieck points out that the result is a mess that leaves  financially strapped school districts with few choices. It’s not that  the “lunch ladies” (you have to love Jamie Oliver’s term) don’t know how  to make decent meals. It’s that they are up against inadequate funding  and equipment, and impossible nutrition standards that can be met most  easily by commercial products like Uncrustables that are designed to meet USDA standards. My favorite example contains  51 ingredients (my rule is “no more than five”).  See Note below.
Inadequate funding is a big consideration in the Child  Nutrition Act. This act provides $4.5 billion over 10 years for  school meals. Although this represents a 10-fold increase over previous  (2004) funding, it works out to an additional measly six cents per  meal–not nearly enough to solve school districts’ financial problems.
But–and this is a huge step forward–the act gives USDA the  authority to set nutrition standards not only for foods sold in the  cafeteria but also in vending machines and a la carte lines.
And the bill does a few other Very Good Things.  It provides:
- An estimated $1.2 billion over 10 years for meals at after-school  programs, free meals to all students in schools with high poverty  levels, and increased availability of meals during summer months.
- An estimated $3.2 billion for establishing nutrition standards,  strengthening local wellness policies, and increasing reimbursement  rates.
- Mandatory funding for schools to establish school gardens and buy  foods from local sources.
- Increased training for local food service personnel.
- Automatic enrollment of foster children for free school meals.
As for the pesky nutrition standards: the bill expects the USDA to  revise them according to the recent report of the Institute of Medicine  (IOM), School  Meals: Building Blocks for Health Children. This report recommended  a conversion to food-based, rather than nutrient-based, standards along  with increases in the amount and variety of fruits, vegetables, and  whole grains and limits on calories, saturated fat, and sodium.
All of this makes the CNA well worth supporting. Is it perfect? Of  course not. But it is a good first step to making big improvements  eventually. In the meantime, plenty of schools are already doing great  work and more are joining the food revolution one meal at a time.  These  deserve all the help we can give them.
*NOTE: the label of this particular Uncrustable was sent to me by Daniel of Ithaca, who works in an upstate New York school district:
BREAD; ENRICHED UNBLEACHED FLOUR (WHEAT FLOUR, MALTED BARLEY FLOUR,  NIACIN, REDUCED IRON, THIAMIN MONONITRATE, RIBOFLAVIN, FOLIC ACID),  WATER, HIGH FRUCTOSE CORN SYRUP, YEAST, PARTIALLY HYDROGENATED SOYBEAN  OIL AND/OR SOYBEAN OIL, CONTAINS 2% OR LESS OF: WHEAT GLUTEN, SALT,  DOUGH CONDITIONERS (MAY CONTAIN ONE OR MORE OF: DIACETYL TARTARIC ACID  ESTERS OF MONO AND DIGLYCERIDES [DATEM], MONO AND DIGLYCERIDES,  ETHOXYLATED MONO AND DIGLYCERIDES, SODIUM STEAROYL LACTYLATE, CALCIUM  PEROXIDE, ASCORBIC ACID, AZODICARBONAMIDE, L-CYSTEINE), YEAST NUTRIENTS  (MAY CONTAIN ONE OR MORE OF: MONOCALCIUM PHOSPHATE, CALCIUM SULFATE,  AMMONIUM SULFATE), CALCIUM PROPIONATE (MAINTAIN FRESHNESS), CORNSTARCH,  ENZYMES (WITH WHEAT). PASTEURIZED PROCESS CHEESE SPREAD: CULTURED MILK  AND SKIM MILK, WATER, WHEY (FROM MILK), SODIUM PHOSPHATE, SALT, CREAM  (FROM MILK), CORN SYRUP, LACTIC ACID, SORBIC ACID (PRESERVATIVE), GUAR  GUM, ARTIFICIAL COLOR, ENZYMES. BUTTER FLAVORED OIL: PARTIALLY  HYDROGENATED SOYBEAN OIL, SALT, SOY LECITHIN, NATURAL AND ARTIFICAL  FLAVORS (WITH MILK), VITAMIN A PALMITATE, BETA CAROTENE ADDED FOR COLOR.