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Jonathan Rees.  The Fulton Fish Market: A History. Columbia University Press, 2022.

I really wanted to read this book and was appy to do a blurb for it.

Rees’s history of Manhattan’s Fulton Fish Market is an elegy for a place that reached peak vibrancy in the 1920s, only to decline steadily as a result of overfishing, developers, the Mafia, unions, politics, refrigeration, real estate prices, and, eventually, more developers.  Rees’s thoughtful analysis of these themes has much to tell us about the clash between the natural and built worlds in American cities over the last couple of centuries.

Rees is a history professor at Colorado State-Pueblo, a food historian.  I’ve long wanted to understand the changes I’ve witnessed at Manhattan’s South Street Seaport and the reasons for moving the fish market to Hunt’s Point in the Bronx, a mile from the nearest subway station.

I remember my first visit—at 4:00 am on a cold winter’s day—to the fish market in the mid-1990s.  It was lit up like a stadium, crowded with people, tables covered with fish, and hand-trucks for moving them.  I thought it looked like a move set on which the director has just shouted, “Action.”  We had to move quickly to avoid being hit.

My guide was the chef-owner of a Chelsea fish restaurant who pulled thousands of dollars in cash out of his pockett o pay for the fish he was selecting carefully for the next few days.  His purchases went to a van that would take them to his restaurant within the next hour or so.

We went for coffee at a nearby café and were out of there by 6:00 a.m.

I picked four excerpts from Rees’ book that help explain the history of this place:

(1) Two developments very close to the Fulton Fish Market spurred the transformation of the entire neighborhood into something new by the end of the twentieth century and beyond: the founding of the South Street Seaport Museum in 1967 and the development of the neighborhood by the Rouse Corporation, a Baltimore firm best known for its successful revitalization of the Faneuil Hall area in Boston… More development increased rents. Businesses which made more money than dealing in wholesale fish then bought up properties that the dealers had moved into earlier in the century, thereby changing the character of the neighborhood. The city and the state never deemed the actual fish market worthy of protection. As a result, every new project that made the neighborhood more desirable made it harder for the fish market to stay a fish market.

(2) From a longterm perspective, the geographical advantage of the Fulton Fish Market disappeared when fish stopped arriving there by water….When they arrived in New York by train or truck it no longer mattered where in New York City the fish market happened to be. In fact, with the arrival of modern refrigeration and freezing, you could have moved the largest fish market in America to Connecticut, or South Carolina for that matter….

(3) The original Fulton Fish Market was obviously a market in the sense that it was a place to buy and sell fish, but the longterm historical significance of the place derives more from the other sense of the word “market,” namely the abstract idea that there is a set of dedicated buyers for the good that gets sold there. The wholesalers who ran the Fulton Fish Market expanded the scope of the abstract market in order to keep their physical market going…Nobody really cared about the public good as long as they were all still making money…the actions of the wholesalers who operated there spurred the general indifference of the wholesale fish industry to the problem of overfishing, despite the obvious cost of this behavior to the overall amount of fish in the sea.

(4) In ancient Greece, the marketplace was the center of daily life. The body politic congregated there to interact, make collective decisions and conduct commerce. Fulton Market bore some resemblance to this situation during its early history, but its operations became less public as it evolved into a wholesale market….Today, without a subway stop anywhere near it, average New Yorkers would have difficulty getting to any of the city’s wholesale markets in the South Bronx. Moreover, because of improvements in refrigeration and transportation, wholesale markets aren’t even necessary for restaurants or groceries to operate in the city anymore… These days, it is very easy to forget that Manhattan is an island.

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I’m indebted to Politico for this one: Federal government won’t stop buying food from meatpacker tied to bribery case.

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For 30% off, go to www.ucpress.edu/9780520384156.  Use code 21W2240 at checkout.

Twitter still has its uses.  It’s how I found out about about Chile’s new dietary guidelines.

Even without speaking Spanish, you can see what they do that the US Dietary Guidelines do not.  They emphasize:

• Sustainability (the forbidden word in the 2020-2025 US Guideines)
• Fresh, minimally processed foods–“Avoid products ultra-processed and labeled as “high in” (“ultra-processed is not mentioned in the US Guidelines)
• Home cooking
• Respect for traditional cultural values
• Farmers’ markets
• Recycling

One odd message: “Consume làcteos en todas las etapas de la vida,” which I translate as “Consume dairy foods through all stages of life.”

I’m wondering how that got in there and guessing that Chile must have a powerful dairy industry.

But I hope the new, soon to be appointed, I’m told, 2025-2030 Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee will pay attention to Chile’s version.  It has much to teach us.

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For 30% off, go to www.ucpress.edu/9780520384156.  Use code 21W2240 at checkout.

Jim Krieger of Healthy Food America sent me this Food Navigator article titled “Can ultra-processed packaged food play a role in healthy, sustainable diets of the future.”

Uh oh.  Another attack on the concept of ultra-processed foods.  These, you will recall, are strongly associated in observational studies with poor health outcome, and one clinical trial demonstrates them to cause people to eat more calories.

The makers of highly processed foods are understandably worried that the word will get out and people will stop eating them.

Clif Bar to the rescue.

It sponsored a small session to establish guidelines for making highly processed foods healthier: “Making Healthy, Sustainable Diets Accessible and Achievable: A New Framework for Assessing the Nutrition, Environmental, and Equity Impacts of Packaged Foods”

The publication emphasizes flaws in the concept of “ultra-processed,” an approach it says

lacks the nuance needed to holistically evaluate packaged foods within recommended dietary patterns. Additionally, there is considerable diversity of opinion within the literature on these topics, especially on how best to improve nutrition security in populations most at risk of diet-related chronic disease. In support of addressing these challenges, 8 sustainability and nutrition experts were convened by Clif Bar & Company for a facilitated discussion on the urgent need to drive adoption of healthy, sustainable diets; the crucial role that certain packaged foods can play in helping make such diets achievable and accessible; and the need for actionable guidance around how to recommend and choose packaged foods that consider human, societal, and planetary health.

Acknowledgments: “Staff at Clif Bar & Company developed the meeting agenda, synthesized all prework inputs, participated as observers in the workshop, and assisted in the gathering of the materials used to prepare this manuscript.”

Here is an ingredient list for an oatmeal raisin walnut Clif Bar:

ORGANIC ROLLED OATS, ORGANIC BROWN RICE SYRUP, SOY RICE CRISPS (SOY PROTEIN ISOLATE, RICE FLOUR, BARLEY MALT EXTRACT), ORGANIC ROASTED SOYBEANS, ORGANIC TAPIOCA SYRUP, ORGANIC CANE SYRUP, ORGANIC RAISINS, CHICORY FIBER, ORGANIC SOY FLOUR, WALNUTS, SUNFLOWER AND/OR SOYBEAN OIL, NATURAL FLAVORS, SALT, ORGANIC CINNAMON, MIXED TOCOPHEROLS (ANTIOXIDANT).

My definition of ultra-processed is that you can’t make it in your home kitchen because the ingredients are industrially produced and not available in supermarkets.  By this definition, the soy rice crisps are ultra-processed and maybe chicory fiber, but that’s about it.

The Clif people must be worried that they will be viewed in the same category as seriously ultra-processed snack foods.

Let’s give them and their parent company, Mondelez, credit for full disclosure.

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For 30% off, go to www.ucpress.edu/9780520384156.  Use code 21W2240 at checkout.

I received an email from the American Kratom Association, an organization I did not know existed. (now, I do).

Landmark Bipartisan Bill Regulating Kratom in the United States Introduced in Congress

Bill will ensure consumers have continued access to safe, regulated kratom products

The American Kratom Association is elated to announce Federal Kratom Consumer Protection Act legislation has been filed in both the Senate and House. This is a monumental moment for kratom consumers and a significant step towards protecting the rights of millions of Americans. The fight is far from won, but we are only arriving at this exciting event because of the support of so many amazing advocates.

What is kratom?  It depends on whom you ask.

The American Kratom Association says:

Kratom is a plant that has been used safely for centuries in Southeast Asia and in the United States since the early 1970s. ..for a variety of health and wellness purposes, including for an energy boost, increased focus, reducing anxiety, and as a personal harm reduction tool for managing acute and chronic pain.   [see KratomAnswers.org for details]

The U.S.  Drug Enforcement Administration agrees that Kratom has a long history of use in Southeast Asia.   But, it says,

Consumption of its leaves produces both stimulant effects (in low doses) and sedative effects (in high doses), and can lead to psychotic symptoms, and psychological and physiological dependence….In the U.S., the abuse of kratom has increased markedly in recent years…The FDA has not approved Kratom for any medical use. In addition, DEA has listed kratom as a Drug and Chemical of Concern.

The FDA says kratom is an unapproved drug and writes cease-and-desist letters to its sellers.

This begins to sound  just like what’s going on with hemp and marijuana in New York State (see yesterday’s post).

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For 30% off, go to www.ucpress.edu/9780520384156.  Use code 21W2240 at checkout.

Happy new year to all.!

And now, back to my Monday postings of industry-funded studies.  Today’s is about the popular herbal supplement, ashwagandha.   This is typically taken to reduce stress and improve a wide variety of health problems, but little science backs up those contentions.  Hence, this study, which I learned about from reading an account of it: Single ashwagandha dose may exert cognitive performance: Study.  That headline was all it took to get me to ask my usual question: Who paid for this?

The study: Effects of Acute Ashwagandha Ingestion on Cognitive Function. Int. J. Environ. Res. Public Health 2022, 19(19), 11852; https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph191911852

Methods: The study assessed performance on the Berg–Wisconsin Card Sorting (BCST), Go/No-Go (GNG), Sternberg Task (STT), and Psychomotor Vigilance Task (PVTT) tests.   Participants took a placebo or ashwagandha (ASH) extract (NooGandha^®, Specnova Inc., Boca Raton, FL, USA).

Conclusions: Acute supplementation with 400 mg of ashwagandha improved selected measures of executive function, helped sustain attention, and increased short-term/working memory.

Funding: “This study was funded as a fee-for-service project awarded to the Human Clinical Research Facility at Texas A&M University from Specnova, Inc. (Boca Raton, FL, USA)…Specnova was not involved in any way in data collection, analysis of the data, or the writing of the manuscript.”

Comment: Specnova, you will not be surprised to learn, is a supplier of supplement ingredients.  The company ordered the study to its specifications.  It got the result it wanted, as funders almost invariably do.  Despite booming sales of ashwagandha, so little is known about its properties that the National Center for Complementary and Integrative Medicine does not even have a fact sheet for it among its reviews of herbal supplements.  Industry-sponsored research to the rescue!  And of course it “was not involved in any way…”  It didn’t have to be.  Funding is usually enough to induce unconscious bias on its own.

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For 30% off, go to www.ucpress.edu/9780520384156.  Use code 21W2240 at checkout.

Much is happening in the plant-based food sector.  I love trying to keep up with it.

First, the bad, or somewhat bad, news:

• SPECIAL REPORT: Plant-based dairy and meat by numbers; declining trends continue, but pockets of growth remain: New data from IRI and SPINS shows continued steep declines in sales of refrigerated meat alternatives but pockets of growth in frozen products and some plant-based milk, cheese, and yogurt subcategories, which do not all behave in the same way (spoiler alert: oatmilk is hot, oat yogurt is not)…. Read more
• Meat substitutes contain ‘antinutrients’ that inhibit absorption of iron and zinc: ‘The industry needs to think about the nutritional value of these products’: New research out of Sweden has found that while many meat substitutes are high in micronutrients like iron they are often found in a form that cannot be absorbed by the body…. Read more 
• Business Insider A food fight is raging over what we can and can’t call ‘meat’:  Startups that make plant-based foods are battling the meat lobby for the right to describe their products as bacon, burgers or steak. Read More

Next, the new product launches:

• The latest food and drink plant-based product launches: Food Manufacture looks at some of the latest food and drink product launches in the plant-based and vegan category, including Meatless Farm, Seabloom, Richmond, Innocent and Sheese. Read more
• Voie gras: Nestlé develops plant-based foie gras alternative for European markets: Just six months on from inception, Nestlé’s vegan foie gras alternative is launching into Swiss and Spanish markets under its Garden Gourmet bran. Read more
• Plant-based butter set to revolutionise the art of pastry with low environmental impactBe Better My Friend is a Dutch company set up by chef Marike van Beurden, food scientist Pere Castells and global food strategist Joost Lindeman with a vision to end the bakery sector’s dependency on animal-derived ingredients…. Read more
• Creamy without the cow: ChickP releases plant-based ice cream with ‘a truly rich’ texture: ChickP Protein’s chickpea-based ice cream prototype boasts dairy-like creamy texture and fewer additives…. Read more
• Philadelphia Cream Cheese launches plant-based spread: The product, which is available at select retailers in the Southeastern U.S., is Kraft Heinz’s second non-dairy launch under one of its flagship brands in the last two months.

And where the industry might be headed:

• Food companies invited to collaborate on plant-based research: Plant2Food, a science platform from the Novo Nordisk Foundation, is inviting UK food companies to collaborate on plant and food science and share new knowledge. Read more

Comment: Despite the current drop in sales, I don’t see these products disappearing off the shelves.  There is a demand or them among people who do not want to eat meat or dairy foods for reasons of health, animal welfare, or the environment.  The products need to taste good if they are going to continue to sell.  And they need to become more food-based rather than ingredient-based if they are to overcome concerns about their meeting definitions of ultra-processed.

I will keep following this sector with great interest.  Stay tuned.

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For 30% off, go to www.ucpress.edu/9780520384156.  Use code 21W2240 at checkout.

Healthy People 2030 has released its latest set of tracking data.  This, you will recall, is the latest of the US Public Health Service’s 10-year plans for improving the health of Americans.  The agencies involved set specific, measurable objectives and track progress toward achieving them.

You can browse the full set of objectives here.

The objectives for overweight and obesity are here.  Three have tracking data available.  Of these,

One shows no change: Reduce the proportion of children and adolescents with obesity — NWS‑04

Two are getting worse

• Reduce the proportion of adults with obesity — NWS‑03
• Increase the proportion of women who had a healthy weight before pregnancy — MICH‑13

The objectives for Nutrition and Healthy Eating are here.

Of the objectives with data available, two showi improvement!