First see Bloomberg News on Who killed Tony the Tiger: How Kellogg lost breakfast (February 26) Next, see what’s happening to breakfast from the point of view of the food industry.
What’s for breakfast? Re-inventing the first meal of the day
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I gave a talk last week at Hastings College in Hastings, Nebraska.
Before I left, Michael Moss, who wrote the New York Times investigative report about Hasting’s USDA animal research facility, mentioned the Kool-Aid museum.
The Kool-Aid museum?
As it happens, I adore museum exhibits devoted to single food items. The Hastings Museum houses a permanent collection of Kool-Aid historical materials and artifacts.
A Hastings resident, Edwin Perkins, invented this product in 1927.
Kool-Aid, in case this isn’t on your usual shopping list, is a flavored and colored powder that comes in small packets. You add the 4.6 gram contents—plus one full cup of sugar—to two quarts of water.
What’s in the packets? I was given a cherry limeade flavor: contains citric acid, maltodextrin, calcium phosphate, vitamin C, natural and artificial flavor, salt, artificial color, red 40, tocopherol [a form of vitamin E], BHA, and BHT (preservatives).
The less said about nutritional value, the better.
But take a look at its corporate history:
I loved the exhibit, even though you have to go through rooms full of guns to get to it.
The exhibit didn’t mention the Jonestown massacre, the source of the phrase “drinking the Kool-Aid” because Kool-Aid was not involved.
The uproar caused by the release of the Scientific Report of the 2015 Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee (DGAC) has been even noisier than I predicted, so noisy that USDA Secretary Vilsack appears to have pulled back on it. He told Jerry Hagstrom (HagstromReport.com) that:
He wants people to realize that the process of writing the dietary guidelines “is just beginning today,” and that he and [HHS Secretary] Burwell will consider input from federal agencies and the general public. He said he wants to be sure that people “know that I know my responsibility.”
In this, Vilsack was referring to the directive by Congress in the 2015 appropriations bill blocking him from considering sustainability in the guidelines.
As for the DGAC report: It concluded:
…the U.S. population should be encouraged and guided to consume dietary patterns that are rich in vegetables, fruit, whole grains, seafood, legumes, and nuts; moderate in low- and non-fat dairy products and alcohol (among adults); lower in red and processed meat; and low in sugar-sweetened foods and beverages and refined grains.
Predictably, this did not go over well with the meat industry or, for that matter, other industries affected by such advice or groups funded by such industries.
Less predictably, the New York Times published an Op-Ed by Nina Teicholz, the journalist author of “The Big Fat Surprise,” a work based on her own review of the science of fat. In her view, mainstream nutritionists have badly misinterpreted this science to the great detriment of public health.
Her conclusion:
…we would be wise to return to what worked better for previous generations: a diet that included fewer grains, less sugar and more animal foods like meat, full-fat dairy and eggs.
But Teicholz’ book has been the subject of a line-by-line analysis by Seth Yoder (whom I do not know personally). Mr. Yoder did what graduate students in science are trained to do: read the references.
He looked up and examined the references Teicholz cites in the book as the basis of her views. He documents an astonishing number of situations in which the references say something quite different from what Teicholz gets out of them. At the very least, his analysis raises serious questions about the credibility of her views on the science of fat.
Let’s grant that the science of nutrition is difficult to do and complicated. The New York Times should know this, which is why I’m surprised that it would give Teicholz so prominent a platform without countering them with point-counterpoint views of a respected nutrition scientist.
It does little to foster the health of the public to make nutrition science appear more controversial than it really is.
The basic advice offered by 2015 Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee boils down to plain common sense:
Unfortunately, this kind of advice doesn’t make headlines or, apparently, merit op-ed space in the New York Times.
The 2015 Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee (DGAC) issued its more than 500-page report yesterday.
Before I say anything about it, please note that this report informs, but does not constitute, the Dietary Guidelines. The agencies—USDA and HHS—write the actual Guidelines and are not expected to do so until the end of this year.
Here are what I see as the highlights (these are direct quotes)
Some facts and statements from the report (not direct quotes).
The report comments on issues under current debate.
The DGAC recommends (these are direct quotes but not necessarily complete):
And for all federal nutrition programs, the DGAC recommends:
Congratulations to this committee for its courageous recommendations.
Why courageous? See my previous comments on the objections to such advice.
The next step: public comment:
The public is encouraged to view the independent advisory group’s report and provide written comments at www.DietaryGuidelines.gov for a period of 45 days after publication in the Federal Register. The public will also have an opportunity to offer oral comments at a public meeting in Bethesda, Maryland, on March 24, 2015. Those interested in providing oral comments at the March 24, 2015, public meeting can register at www.DietaryGuidelines.gov. Capacity is limited, so participants will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis.
Here’s your chance to support this committee’s excellent ideas and demonstrate public approval for diets that promote the health of people and the planet.
Note: the reactions to the report are pouring in and I will deal with them next week. Enjoy the weekend!
This is my week to be talking about the Dietary Guidelines, apparently. Yesterday’s Politico Morning Agriculture, a news source on which I greatly depend, noted yet another attack on the Dietary Guidelines, this one from a group called The Healthy Nation Coalition.
The Coalition wrote a letter to the secretaries of USDA and HHS, the agencies sponsoring the Guidelines, with many complaints about process and ineffectiveness.
I had never heard of this group, so I went to its website and laughed when I saw this graph—a terrific example of why epidemiologists insist that association does not necessarily say anything about causation.
The implication here is that the Dietary Guidelines either cause obesity (something patently absurd) or have had no effect on its prevalence (something only to be expected given the other changes in society that predisposed to obesity beginning in the early 1980s).
If anything, the Dietary Guidelines are a result of those forces in society, not their cause.
I have my own issues with Dietary Guidelines (see Fo0d Politics), mainly about the use of advice that is euphemistic (“choose lean meats”) or incomprehensible (reduce SoFAS—solid fats and added sugars), and their focus on nutrients (fat, sugar, salt) rather than foods.
But I can’t understand what this Coalition is about or what it wants.
Its website says the Coalition formed because
A sense of community has arisen around questioning our current approach to food and nutrition. Healthy Nation Coalition has its beginnings in the ancestral health, Weston A. Price Foundation, and low-carbohydrate nutrition communities.
I understand what the Coalition does not want. It
suggests that the 2010 Guidelines are not appropriate for population-wide diet recommendations, especially with regard to restrictions on dietary fat, saturated fat, cholesterol and salt.
indicates that the 2010 Guidelines may lead to increased risk of weight gain, diabetes, and chronic disease in many populations.
indicates that reducing intake of sugars and starches has health benefits.
indicates that adequate, complete protein is a critical part of the adult diet and that many adults benefit from intakes above current minimum recommendations.
Here’s what it says it wants
the Healthy Nation Coalition proposes that this process be removed from the USDA and HHS and given to one or more independent agencies, offices, or entities that can create dietary guidance that is without bias and responsive to the needs of the people of America.
Really? Like what?
The “ask” in the letter is this:
It is the duty of USDA and DHHS leadership to end the use of controversial, unsuccessful and discriminatory dietary recommendations. USDA and DHHS leadership must refuse to accept any DGA that fail to establish federal nutrition policy based on the foundation of good health: adequate essential nutrition from wholesome, nourishing foods. It is time to create DGA that work for all Americans.
But what would they look like?
I don’t recognize any of the names of the individuals listed as part of the Coalition.
Can anyone explain to me what this group wants and is about?
This morning’s Politico Pro Morning Agriculture says that FDA menu labeling (see Monday’s Post) is not the only food rule being held up by the White House.
The issue: The White House is supposed to sign off or reply within 90 days, or formally request an extension. That’s not happening with menu calorie labeling or four others:
What’s going on? Politics, of course. But I can only speculate on what they might be.
Jerry Hagstrom, who writes the daily Hagstrom report on agriculture matters, explains why the farm bill passed. After 3 or 4 years of fuss, practically everyone thought it was the best they could do:
Critics on the right and the left say that such an outpouring of endorsements shows that the farm bill is filled with government spending, but it also shows the importance of the farm bill—and the activities of the Agriculture Department—in every corner of the country. [The farm bill] provides purchasing power and food for low-income people in cities and it allows for the inspection of meat, poultry, and eggs. It also pays for financing electricity, telephones, and the Internet in rural America.
The bottom line: it could have been a lot worse.
The New York Times scores the winners and losers. The big winner? The insurance industry.
Unlike the food stamp program, the federally subsidized crop insurance program was not cut. The program, which is administered by 18 companies that are paid $1.4 billion annually by the government to sell policies to farmers, pays 62 percent of farmers’ premiums.
Enthusiasm for the bill depends on what it gives to whom.
USDA Secretary Tom Vilsack says, grudgingly:
Building on the historic economic gains in rural America over the past 5 years, this bill will accomplish those goals while achieving meaningful reform and billions of dollars in savings for the taxpayer. While no legislation is perfect, this bill is a strong investment in American agriculture and supports the continued global leadership of our farmers and ranchers.
Former USDA Secretary Dan Glickman, now with the Bipartisan Policy Center, looks at the bright side:
While this is not a perfect bill, its passage was critical for our nation’s agriculture infrastructure. I’m glad to see the bill will allow low-income Americans to double their SNAP benefits at farmers markets, which will help tens of thousands of people eat more nutritious foods. However, I believe there is still a fundamental disconnect between the nation’s farm policies and critical issues of public health and nutrition.
Wholesome Wave is pleased with the bill’s support (comparatively small as it is) for fruits and vegetables:
While we are reluctant to support this legislation because of the disheartening cuts to SNAP, the bill does include funding for many critical programs that will enhance access to affordable, local food and drive revenue to local and regional farmers. Specifically, there is mandatory funding for nutrition incentives at $20 million per year, for five years, as well as increased funding for the Farmers Market and Local Food Promotion Program, Community Food Projects, Specialty Crop Block Grants, the Senior Farmers Market Nutrition Program, Beginning Farmers and the Healthy Food Financing Initiative.
The Organic Farming Research Foundation calls the bill “a victory for organic farming:”
The Farm Bill restores long overdue support for organic agriculture including significant funding increases for the Organic Extension and Research Initiative (OREI), the National Organic Certification Cost Share Program (NOCCSP), the National Organic Program (NOP) and the Organic Data Initiative (ODI). Despite significant shortcomings in the commodity, conservation and crop insurance titles of the proposal, the Organic Farming Research Foundation (OFRF) is celebrating the victories for organic agriculture found in the bill and urging the president to sign it.
The Fair Food Network’s Oran Hesterman says:
While no Farm Bill is perfect, this bill continues support for critical programs and advances innovations that will support small and mid-scale farmers and help more low-income families access healthy and affordable foods in their communities…Specifically, the Farm Bill includes $100 million to support the Food Insecurity Nutrition Incentive Program, a new national healthy produce program modeled after successful efforts such as Fair Food Network’s Double Up Food Bucks.
But, New York City Coalition Against Hunger Executive Director Joel Berg says:
I am devastated, but unfortunately not surprised, by the Senate’s passage of a Farm Bill cutting SNAP by nearly $9 billion, on top of $11 billion in cuts that took place last November 1st. Our political system is so broken it has morphed into spineless versus heartless, and low-income Americans are, once again, those who will suffer most…It’s an orgy of corporate welfare and subsidies for the wealthy paid for by cuts to programs that help the needy put food on the table. It is Robin Hood in reverse.
I’ll end with Senator John McCain (Rep-AZ), whose analysis of the specifics is worth a look:
Mr. President, how are we supposed to restore the American people’s confidence with this monstrosity? Just a few weeks ago we crammed down their throats a $1.1 trillion Omnibus Appropriations Bill loaded with wasteful spending. Tomorrow we’ll wash the Omnibus down with another trillion dollars. The only policy that gets bipartisan traction in Congress is Washington’s desire to hand out taxpayer money like its [sic] candy.
Will the President sign this bill? He says he will, on Friday.
It’s too soon for me to say much about the farm bill other than to express disgust for the entire process.
The House and Senate still have to vote on it, which leaves plenty more opportunity for last-minute amendments, the addition of even more pork, and even more welfare for the rich at the expense of the poor.
In the meantime, we have the
What can I say? The farm bill is a mess—the worst example of the worst of food politics.
Every clause in those 949 pages exists as the result of special-interest lobbying. Guess what: some special-interest groups have more money and power than others.
The result: an unattractive compromise.
If the bill is ever to pass, everyone has to compromise, but some groups have to compromise more than others.
How else to explain the Center for Budget and Policy Priorities’ statement that the SNAP cuts represent a reasonable compromise?
To be sure, the conference agreement does include $8.6 billion in SNAP cuts over the next decade. Yet it stands in sharp contrast to the nearly $40 billion in SNAP cuts in the House-passed bill of September, which contained an array of draconian provisions and would have thrown 3.8 million people off SNAP in 2014, according to the Congressional Budget Office (CBO). The conference agreement includes none of the draconian House provisions — and it removes virtually no low-income households from SNAP.
I am indebted to ProPoliticoAg for listing the winners: groups that want to retain Country-of-Origin Labeling (COOL), the dairy manufacturers, organic producers (!), the U.S. catfish industry (USDA will inspect catfish, not FDA), and animal welfare groups (states can insist on standards), The soybean and rice industries are also happy with the bill, as are groups that want more flexibility in food aid.
ProPoliticoAg’s losers: meat packers and processors who wanted to get rid of COOL, dairy farmers who preferred a different program, the poultry industry (which will have to abide by state cage-size requirements), anti-hunger advocates (the SNAP cuts).
ProPoliticoAg also read the fine print (as I promise to do once the bill passes):
I’m speaking at the Aspen Ideas Festival: Health. I’ll be interviewed by Helena Bottemiller Evich of FoodFix from 9:00 to 9:50 a.m.. Topic: “Making sense of nutrition science.”
